The Trinity Stars Tote Crochet Pattern
I began playing around with creating my own designs in the last year, and after creating more baby blanket patterns that I could count, I decided to delve into a different category that I haven’t touched before. The Trinity Stars Tote is my second tote design, (The Sara Elena Tote Pattern was first and can be found here (The Sara Elena Tote Pattern) but has quickly become a favorite.
The design itself is a combination of a few of my favorite stitches that I combined in what I hope is a new and fresh way. The silhouette of the tote is classic and can be worn in a variety of ways and the style will hopefully stand the test of time. I’m all about texture and details with new pattern ideas, and the Trinity Stars tote has a fantastic combination of both.
With each new project I create I try to use a stitch that I haven’t before, but with this tote I decided to combine a few of my favorites. The Trinity stitch is an absolutely gorgeous stitch that I’ve used in a few patterns now, but have not seen much elsewhere. It adds a beautiful texture and unique look to the design, and is really quite simple once you get the hang of it! The Berry stitch is another favorite that I’ve used in a few other patterns, but its so much fun to use and creates such an understated look that I couldn’t help using it for this design as well! The yarn used is Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton, which I consider to be a thinner Medium-4 weight yarn. It has a lovely sheen to it as it’s a mercerized cotton, but is still durable and machine wash friendly. For this project you can use any Medium-4 yarn, but I would recommend using one that is a bit thinner if you’d like a more supple, flexible tote.
Get the free pattern below or purchase the low cost, ad-free printable PDF in my shop, or on Etsy or Ravelry.
The printable PDF includes stitch pictorials, stitch count charts, and additional instructional images.
Size: 7.5″ x 7.5″ x 10″
Materials:
Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton™ (3.5 oz/100g; 186 yds/170 m)
(or substitute any Medium-4 weight yarn)
Color A Cool Grey 3.5 balls
Sizes G/6 (4 mm) and 7 (4.5 mm) crochet hooks, or sizes needed for gauge
Yarn needle or large-eyed tapestry needle
Stitch Markers
Gauge for Body: 4” = 21 sts x 22 rows in stitch pattern
Gauge for Base: 4” = 21 sts x 19 rows in stitch pattern
Stitches Used:
SL ST slip stitch
CH chain stitch
SC single crochet
MC magic circle
SM stitch marker
FSC foundation single crochet – Begin with a slip knot on your crochet hook, then chain two. Insert your hook into the first chain stitch. Yarn over and pull up one loop. Yarn over and pull the yarn through the first loop on your hook. Yarn over and pull through both of the loops on your hook to make a single crochet. Then insert your crochet hook into the space between the chain and the single crochet, and repeat instructions above. Continue until you reach your desired length.
TRI trinity stitch – sc your first stitch, sc3tog (insert hook back through first SC in the row, YO, insert hook through next stitch, YO, insert hook through next stitch, YO, (4 loops on hook), pull through all 4 loops on hook, CH 1, repeat (inserting your hook for the first sc of sc3tog through the last stitch used for the previous sc3tog), continue across the row ending with a SC into your final stitch.
Tip: Try to keep your CH STS in the trinity stitch rows loose, it makes it easier to work subsequent rows.
BER berry stitch – yarn over, insert your hook into the designated stitch, YO, pull through, YO, and pull through one loop on the hook. Then, YO, insert your hook into the same stitch again, YO, pull through, YO, and pull through all five loops on the hook. *No final CH*
Pattern Notes:
- Starting CH 1 of each round does not count as your first stitch, you will always SC into the same spot, unless otherwise indicated.
- Stitch count will be indicated for base rounds and first round of the body and straps, if not indicated, it will remain the same as the row before.
- For the base, your ST count should increase by 8 STS each round.
- For the body, the alternating SC rows of 22-25 are intended to help hide the joining seam.
- All SC only rows should be worked in the same direction for the entirety of the tote, from the exterior of the bag, in a counterclockwise direction.
- If your base starts to wave or look wonky I would recommend either going up to a larger hook size, 4.5mm, OR if you’re anything like me you can steam the base flat when you hit about 7.5″ or before Round 21. I wanted the base stitches as tight as possible so I steamed it flat
BASE:
Starting with a 4mm hook, create a magic circle.
Round 1: CH 1, then 8 SC inside the MC, SL ST to your first SC. (8 STS)
Round 2: CH 1, SC same ST. *3 SC into next ST (place SM in the middle ST of the 3 SC), SC*, repeat from * around, SL ST to your first SC. (16 STS)
Round 3: CH 1, SC same ST. *SC to corner space, insert 3 SC into SC with SM, (place SM in the middle SC of the 3 SC STS)*. Repeat from * around, SL ST to your first ST. (24 STS)
Round 4-20: CH 1, SC same ST. *SC to corner space, insert 3 SC into SC with SM, (place SM in the middle SC of the 3 SC STS)*. Repeat from * around, SL ST to your first ST. (See Chart above for ST count by round)
You will continue working the base rounds in the same manner until you reach Round 20 or until your base measures about 7.5″.
BODY:
Starting with a 4.5mm hook
Round 21: CH 1, *working in the back loop only* SC into same ST. Then SC into the back loop of each ST around, SL ST to your first SC. (160 STS)
Round 22: CH 1, SC into your NEXT ST. SC into each ST around, work a SC INTO the last ST with your starting CH, SL ST to first SC.
Round 23: CH 1, SC into your SL ST space. SC into each ST around, skip the last ST with your starting CH, SL ST to first SC.
Round 24: CH 1, SC into your NEXT ST. SC into each ST around, work a SC INTO the last ST with your starting CH, SL ST to first SC.
Round 25: CH 1, SC into your SL ST space. SC into each ST around, skip the last ST with your starting CH, SL ST to first SC.
Round 26: CH 1, SC into your SL ST space, then TRI ST around, SC last ST, SL ST to your 1st SC.
Round 27: CH 1, turn, SC into your SL ST space, then TRI ST around, SC last ST, SL ST to your 1st SC.
Round 28: CH 1, turn, SC into your NEXT ST. SC into each ST around, work a SC INTO the last ST with your starting CH, SL ST to first SC.
Round 29: CH 1, SC into your SL ST space. SC into each ST around, skip the last ST with your starting CH, SL ST to first SC.
Round 30: CH 1, SC into your NEXT ST. SC into each ST around, work a SC INTO the last ST with your starting CH, SL ST to first SC.
Round 31: CH 1, SC into your SL ST space. SC into each ST around, skip the last ST with your starting CH, SL ST to first SC.
Round 32: CH 1, turn, SC into your NEXT ST. SC, BER, *4SC, BER*, repeat from * around, SL ST to your 1st SC.
Round 33: CH 1, turn, SC into your NEXT ST. SC into each ST around, work a SC INTO the last ST with your starting CH, SL ST to first SC.
Round 34: CH 1, SC into your SL ST space. SC into each ST around, skip the last ST with your starting CH, SL ST to first SC.
Round 35: CH 1, SC into your NEXT ST. SC into each ST around, work a SC INTO the last ST with your starting CH, SL ST to first SC.
Round 36: CH 1, SC into your SL ST space. SC into each ST around, skip the last ST with your starting CH, SL ST to first SC.
Repeat Rounds 26-36 twice more, then repeat Rounds 26-33 once.
Round 67: CH 1, SC same ST. CH 7, SK 7 STS, SC into 8th ST, 11 SC. CH 7, SK 7 STS, SC into 27th ST, 17 SC. CH 7, SK 7 STS, SC into 52nd ST, 11 SC, CH 7, SK 7 STS, SC into 71st ST, 11 SC. CH 7, SK 7, SC into 89th ST, 12 SC. CH 7, SK 7 STS, SC into 109th ST, 13 SC. CH 7, SK 7 STS, SC into 130 ST, 13 SC. CH7, SK 7 STS, SC into 150th ST, 10 SC to end of row. SL ST to 1st SC.
Round 68: CH 1, SC into your SL ST space. SC into each ST around, skip the last ST with your starting CH, SL ST to first SC.
Round 69: CH 1, SC into your SL ST space, then TRI ST around, SC last ST, SL ST to your 1st SC.
Round 70: CH 1, turn, SC into your SL ST space, then TRI ST around, SC last ST, SL ST to your 1st SC.
Round 71: CH 1, turn, SC into your NEXT ST. SC into each ST around, work a SC INTO the last ST with your starting CH, SL ST to first SC.
Round 72: CH 1, SC into your SL ST space. SC into each ST around, skip the last ST with your starting CH, SL ST to first SC.
STRAP:
Starting with a 4mm hook, FSC 200 STS, or approximately 42″.
Row 1: CH 1, turn, SC into same ST. TRI across the row, SC your last ST. (200 STS)
Row 2: CH 1, turn, SC into same ST. TRI across the row, SC your last ST. (200 STS)
Row 3: CH 1, turn, SC into same ST. SC across the row. (200 STS)
Thread the strap throught the tote holes as shown in image, and sew the two ends together. Move the strap through until the join is hidden in the folds, and FINI!
I hope you enjoy making this pattern as much as I enjoyed creating it! Be sure to tag me, @TKnitsandCrochets, when you share your makes, I love to see your finished work!