Patterns - TKnitsandCrochets

Posted on October 21, 2021January 24, 2022 by tknitsandcrochets — 2 Comments

The Trinity Stars Tote Crochet Pattern

The Trinity Stars Tote Crochet Pattern

I began playing around with creating my own designs in the last year, and after creating more baby blanket patterns that I could count, I decided to delve into a different category that I haven’t touched before. The Trinity Stars Tote is my second tote design, (The Sara Elena Tote Pattern was first and can be found here (The Sara Elena Tote Pattern) but has quickly become a favorite.

The design itself is a combination of a few of my favorite stitches that I combined in what I hope is a new and fresh way. The silhouette of the tote is classic and can be worn in a variety of ways and the style will hopefully stand the test of time. I’m all about texture and details with new pattern ideas, and the Trinity Stars tote has a fantastic combination of both.

With each new project I create I try to use a stitch that I haven’t before, but with this tote I decided to combine a few of my favorites. The Trinity stitch is an absolutely gorgeous stitch that I’ve used in a few patterns now, but have not seen much elsewhere. It adds a beautiful texture and unique look to the design, and is really quite simple once you get the hang of it! The Berry stitch is another favorite that I’ve used in a few other patterns, but its so much fun to use and creates such an understated look that I couldn’t help using it for this design as well! The yarn used is Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton, which I consider to be a thinner Medium-4 weight yarn. It has a lovely sheen to it as it’s a mercerized cotton, but is still durable and machine wash friendly. For this project you can use any Medium-4 yarn, but I would recommend using one that is a bit thinner if you’d like a more supple, flexible tote.

Get the free pattern below or purchase the low cost, ad-free printable PDF in my shop, or on Etsy or Ravelry.

The printable PDF includes stitch pictorials, stitch count charts, and additional instructional images.

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Size: 7.5″ x 7.5″ x 10″

Materials:

Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton™ (3.5 oz/100g; 186 yds/170 m)

(or substitute any Medium-4 weight yarn)

Color A Cool Grey 3.5 balls

Sizes G/6 (4 mm) and 7 (4.5 mm) crochet hooks, or sizes needed for gauge

Yarn needle or large-eyed tapestry needle

Stitch Markers

Gauge for Body: 4” = 21 sts x 22 rows in stitch pattern

Gauge for Base: 4” = 21 sts x 19 rows in stitch pattern

Stitches Used:

SL ST slip stitch

CH chain stitch

SC single crochet

MC magic circle

SM stitch marker

FSC foundation single crochet – Begin with a slip knot on your crochet hook, then chain two. Insert your hook into the first chain stitch. Yarn over and pull up one loop. Yarn over and pull the yarn through the first loop on your hook. Yarn over and pull through both of the loops on your hook to make a single crochet. Then insert your crochet hook into the space between the chain and the single crochet, and repeat instructions above. Continue until you reach your desired length.

TRI trinity stitch – sc your first stitch, sc3tog (insert hook back through first SC in the row, YO, insert hook through next stitch, YO, insert hook through next stitch, YO, (4 loops on hook), pull through all 4 loops on hook, CH 1, repeat (inserting your hook for the first sc of sc3tog through the last stitch used for the previous sc3tog), continue across the row ending with a SC into your final stitch.

Tip: Try to keep your CH STS in the trinity stitch rows loose, it makes it easier to work subsequent rows.

BER berry stitch – yarn over, insert your hook into the designated stitch, YO, pull through, YO, and pull through one loop on the hook. Then, YO, insert your hook into the same stitch again, YO, pull through, YO, and pull through all five loops on the hook. *No final CH*

Pattern Notes:

Starting CH 1 of each round does not count as your first stitch, you will always SC into the same spot, unless otherwise indicated.
Stitch count will be indicated for base rounds and first round of the body and straps, if not indicated, it will remain the same as the row before.
For the base, your ST count should increase by 8 STS each round.
For the body, the alternating SC rows of 22-25 are intended to help hide the joining seam.
All SC only rows should be worked in the same direction for the entirety of the tote, from the exterior of the bag, in a counterclockwise direction.
If your base starts to wave or look wonky I would recommend either going up to a larger hook size, 4.5mm, OR if you’re anything like me you can steam the base flat when you hit about 7.5″ or before Round 21. I wanted the base stitches as tight as possible so I steamed it flat

BASE:

Starting with a 4mm hook, create a magic circle.

Round 1: CH 1, then 8 SC inside the MC, SL ST to your first SC. (8 STS)

Round 2: CH 1, SC same ST. *3 SC into next ST (place SM in the middle ST of the 3 SC), SC*, repeat from * around, SL ST to your first SC. (16 STS)

Round 3: CH 1, SC same ST. *SC to corner space, insert 3 SC into SC with SM, (place SM in the middle SC of the 3 SC STS)*. Repeat from * around, SL ST to your first ST. (24 STS)

Round 4-20: CH 1, SC same ST. *SC to corner space, insert 3 SC into SC with SM, (place SM in the middle SC of the 3 SC STS)*. Repeat from * around, SL ST to your first ST. (See Chart above for ST count by round)

You will continue working the base rounds in the same manner until you reach Round 20 or until your base measures about 7.5″.

The Trinity Stars Tote Pattern Strap Detail

BODY:

Starting with a 4.5mm hook

Round 21: CH 1, *working in the back loop only* SC into same ST. Then SC into the back loop of each ST around, SL ST to your first SC. (160 STS)

Round 22: CH 1, SC into your NEXT ST. SC into each ST around, work a SC INTO the last ST with your starting CH, SL ST to first SC.

Round 23: CH 1, SC into your SL ST space. SC into each ST around, skip the last ST with your starting CH, SL ST to first SC.

Round 24: CH 1, SC into your NEXT ST. SC into each ST around, work a SC INTO the last ST with your starting CH, SL ST to first SC.

Round 25: CH 1, SC into your SL ST space. SC into each ST around, skip the last ST with your starting CH, SL ST to first SC.

Round 26: CH 1, SC into your SL ST space, then TRI ST around, SC last ST, SL ST to your 1st SC.

Round 27: CH 1, turn, SC into your SL ST space, then TRI ST around, SC last ST, SL ST to your 1st SC.

Round 28: CH 1, turn, SC into your NEXT ST. SC into each ST around, work a SC INTO the last ST with your starting CH, SL ST to first SC.

Round 29: CH 1, SC into your SL ST space. SC into each ST around, skip the last ST with your starting CH, SL ST to first SC.

Round 30: CH 1, SC into your NEXT ST. SC into each ST around, work a SC INTO the last ST with your starting CH, SL ST to first SC.

Round 31: CH 1, SC into your SL ST space. SC into each ST around, skip the last ST with your starting CH, SL ST to first SC.

Round 32: CH 1, turn, SC into your NEXT ST. SC, BER, *4SC, BER*, repeat from * around, SL ST to your 1st SC.

Round 33: CH 1, turn, SC into your NEXT ST. SC into each ST around, work a SC INTO the last ST with your starting CH, SL ST to first SC.

Round 34: CH 1, SC into your SL ST space. SC into each ST around, skip the last ST with your starting CH, SL ST to first SC.

Round 35: CH 1, SC into your NEXT ST. SC into each ST around, work a SC INTO the last ST with your starting CH, SL ST to first SC.

Round 36: CH 1, SC into your SL ST space. SC into each ST around, skip the last ST with your starting CH, SL ST to first SC.

Repeat Rounds 26-36 twice more, then repeat Rounds 26-33 once.

Round 67: CH 1, SC same ST. CH 7, SK 7 STS, SC into 8th ST, 11 SC. CH 7, SK 7 STS, SC into 27th ST, 17 SC. CH 7, SK 7 STS, SC into 52nd ST, 11 SC, CH 7, SK 7 STS, SC into 71st ST, 11 SC. CH 7, SK 7, SC into 89th ST, 12 SC. CH 7, SK 7 STS, SC into 109th ST, 13 SC. CH 7, SK 7 STS, SC into 130 ST, 13 SC. CH7, SK 7 STS, SC into 150th ST, 10 SC to end of row. SL ST to 1st SC.

Round 68: CH 1, SC into your SL ST space. SC into each ST around, skip the last ST with your starting CH, SL ST to first SC.

Round 69: CH 1, SC into your SL ST space, then TRI ST around, SC last ST, SL ST to your 1st SC.

Round 70: CH 1, turn, SC into your SL ST space, then TRI ST around, SC last ST, SL ST to your 1st SC.

Round 71: CH 1, turn, SC into your NEXT ST. SC into each ST around, work a SC INTO the last ST with your starting CH, SL ST to first SC.

Round 72: CH 1, SC into your SL ST space. SC into each ST around, skip the last ST with your starting CH, SL ST to first SC.

STRAP:

Starting with a 4mm hook, FSC 200 STS, or approximately 42″.

Row 1: CH 1, turn, SC into same ST. TRI across the row, SC your last ST. (200 STS)

Row 2: CH 1, turn, SC into same ST. TRI across the row, SC your last ST. (200 STS)

Row 3: CH 1, turn, SC into same ST. SC across the row. (200 STS)

Thread the strap throught the tote holes as shown in image, and sew the two ends together. Move the strap through until the join is hidden in the folds, and FINI!

I hope you enjoy making this pattern as much as I enjoyed creating it! Be sure to tag me, @TKnitsandCrochets, when you share your makes, I love to see your finished work!

Posted on January 11, 2022July 22, 2022 by tknitsandcrochets — Leave a comment

The Sara Bead Baby Blanket Crochet Pattern

I began playing around with creating my own designs in 2021, and since everyone around me was expecting in the last year, naturally the first patterns I wanted to try my hand on were baby blankets! After some trial and error, and much frogging, I finally had something that I wanted to write up into a pattern, and make available to makers everywhere, and with that I launched TKnitsandCrochets on Etsy and made a few patterns live. I continued creating new makes and patterns, experimenting with different ideas, and gifting out the finished products as quickly as I could come up with them. I try to create new and modern pattern designs that are workable for both beginner and expert makers alike. All patterns are truly inspired by the happenings in my life and the people (and babies) that surround me! The Sara Bead Baby Blanket, a true labor of love, was created for my own little girl who joined us in June 2021, and I could not be more excited to share it with her and with all the makers out there.

The idea for the Sara Bead Baby Blanket really came around from the time of year that my little girl was due. Being a Spring baby, due in June, I wanted something light, airy, delicate, but still textured for her to come home in and use. I wanted a very soft and lightweight yarn that was breathable but still offered some protection, and after much deliberation and indecisiveness finally settled on Lion Brand Truboo. The design for the pattern itself was another series of trial and error, some frogging while I decided, and changed my mind on colors, and then finally worked up a series of stitches I was happy with that gave the blanket the soft, textured look that I was going for.

With each new blanket I create I try to use a stitch that I haven’t used before, and finally settled on the Bead Stitch as one of the main stitch repeats in the pattern to give the blanket a textured, distinct look. I also added in a treble crochet repeat to give the blanket a lighter feel, and of course the double crochet and half double crochet stitches because what baby blanket would be complete without them! While I used Lion Brand Truboo to give the blanket a soft, wispy feel, there are plenty of other yarns that would work as wonderful substitutions. Some other options that were very strong contenders for this project, and I actually purchased and am going to use on future blankets, were Lion Brand Coboo, Bernat Softee Baby Cotton, and Bernat Softee Baby, but really any Lightweight-3 yarn would be a fantastic option and could be used.

Get the free pattern below or purchase the low cost, ad-free printable PDF in my shop,on Etsy, or Ravelry.

The printable PDF includes stitch pictorials for the special stitch used for the body and recommendation for border.

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The Sara Bead Baby Blanket

Size: 34.5″ x 35″

Materials:

Lion Brand® Truboo™ (3.5 oz/100g; 241yds/220 m)

Color A Coral 2 Balls

Color B White 2 Balls

Color C Aqua 2 Balls

(or substitute any Light-3 weight yarn)

Size G/6 (4 mm) crochet hook, or size needed for gauge

Yarn needle or large-eyed tapestry needle

Gauge: 4” = 19 sts x 11 rows in stitch pattern

Stitches Used:

SL ST slip stitch

CH chain stitch

HDC half double crochet

DC double crochet

TR treble crochet

CRISS CROSS *using TR ST* Skip first ST after your first starting TR and place TR into next ST, then working back, TR into your first skipped ST, repeat across. Should look like an “X” or “V” pattern across the row.

Pattern Notes:

Bead stitch pattern is worked in clusters of 3 stitches, so if you would like to increase or decrease the width of your blanket, simply add or remove stitches in clusters of 3. So a larger blanket could be worked with 180 stitches in your starting chain, plus 3 (for your starting post and your starting chain 3 stitches).

Starting CH of 1 or 2 does NOT count as your first ST. You will always work a HDC, DC, or TR into the same ST.

Instructions:

starting with Color A

Chain 150+3

Row 1: DC into 4th chain from hook, DC across starting chain (150 DC)

Row 2: CH 1, turn, TR into same stitch, then CRISS CROSS across the row using TR STS. Final ST is a straight TR into DC from the row below.

Row 3: CH 1, turn, DC into same stitch, then DC across the row.

Row 4: CH 1, turn, DC into same stitch, then 2 DC, BST, skip next ST, then *3 DC, BST, skip next ST*. Repeat from * across the row, ending with two DC into last two STS.

Row 5: CH 1, turn, DC into same stitch, then DC across the row.

Row 6: CH 1, turn, TR into same stitch, then CRISS CROSS across the row using TR STS. Final ST is a straight TR into DC from the row below.

Row 7: CH 1, turn, DC into same stitch, then DC across the row.

change to Color B

Row 8: CH 1, turn, DC into same stitch, then DC across the row.

Row 9: CH 1, turn, HDC into same stitch, then HDC across the row.

Row 10: CH 1, turn, DC into same stitch, then DC across the row.

Row 11: CH 1, turn, HDC into same stitch, then HDC across the row.

Row 12: CH 1, turn, DC into same stitch, then DC across the row.

change to Color C

Row 13: CH 1, turn, DC into same stitch, then DC across the row.

Row 14: CH 1, turn, TR into same stitch, then CRISS CROSS across the row using TR STS. Final ST is a straight TR into DC from the row below.

Row 15: CH 1, turn, DC into same stitch, then DC across the row.

Row 16: CH 1, turn, DC into same stitch, then 2 DC, BST, skip next ST, then *3 DC, BST, skip next ST*. Repeat from * across the row, ending with two DC into last two STS.

Row 17: CH 1, turn, DC into same stitch, then DC across the row.

Row 18: CH 1, turn, TR into same stitch, then CRISS CROSS across the row using TR STS. Final ST is a straight TR into DC from the row below.

Row 19: CH 1, turn, DC into same stitch, then DC across the row.

change to Color B

Row 20: CH 1, turn, DC into same stitch, then DC across the row.

Row 21: CH 1, turn, HDC into same stitch, then HDC across the row.

Row 22: CH 1, turn, DC into same stitch, then DC across the row.

Row 23: CH 1, turn, HDC into same stitch, then HDC across the row.

Row 24: CH 1, turn, DC into same stitch, then DC across the row.

change to Color A, then follow directions below.

Repeat Rows 1-24 twice more (but for each repeat of Row 1, follow directions for Row 3), and then repeat Rows 1-19 once (ending with Color C) or continue until you reach your desired length.

If you’re looking for a lightweight, textured, quick, and modern baby blanket as a gift for someone in your life or for yourself the Sara Bead Baby Blanket would be perfect for you! I hope you enjoy working up this piece as much as I’ve enjoyed creating it!

If you like this blanket pattern, you’ll love the baby blanket patterns below!

The Fairy Skies Baby Blanket

The Starry Dreams Baby Blanket

Posted on November 29, 2021August 13, 2022 by tknitsandcrochets — Leave a comment

The Jasara Table Runner

The Jasara Table Runner

With the holidays quickly approaching (right around the corner) I decided to finally tackle a project that I’ve had in the back of my mind for a while now but always on the back burner, a table runner! My dining room table has been looking woefully incomplete, and a table runner is just what I needed to complete our in home holiday décor.

As you all might be starting to realize, I love and adore texture in crochet items, and always try to work up a pattern that includes a beautiful texture and details. The stitch used here gives a lovely mini-Christmas tree detail to the piece, and I really love how it turned out! I’ve never used the stitch before, and I’m sure there is an actual fancy name somewhere on the internet for it, but I couldn’t find it so I made one up! The yarn used is Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK, which is a soft and very easy to work with Lightweight-3 cotton yarn, but any Lightweight-3 yarn should do beautifully for you in this pattern.

This post may contain affiliate links and I may earn a small commission when you click on the links at no additional cost to you.

Get the free pattern below or purchase the low cost, ad-free printable PDF in my shop,on Etsy, or Ravelry.

The printable PDF includes stitch pictorials for the special stitch used and size chart to alternately work up a placemat or dish towel.

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The Jasara Table Runner Crochet Pattern

Size: 15″ x 84″

Materials:

Color A Red Wine 4 Balls

Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK (1.7oz/50g; 125 yds/137 meters)

Color B Racing Green 3 Balls

Color C Light Champagne 3 Balls

(or substitute any Lightweight-3 weight yarn)

Size G/6 (4 mm) crochet hook, or size needed for gauge

Yarn needle or large-eyed tapestry needle

Gauge: 4” = 19 sts x 10 rows in stitch pattern

Stitches Used:

SL ST slip stitch

CH chain stitch

SC single crochet

DC double crochet

TR treble crochet

TR SS treble crochet special stitch – YO twice, insert hook into ST just skipped, YO, pull through (4 loops on hook), YO, pull through 2loops (3 loops on hook), YO, insert hook into next ST, YO, pull through two loops (4 loops on hook), YO, insert hook into next ST, YO, pull through two loops (5 loops on hook), YO, pull through 3 loops (3 loops on hook), YO, pull through last 3 loops (then follow pattern directions to CH 2 and continue on to next TRSS)

Pattern Notes:

→ CH 1 or 2 at the beginning of each row does NOT count as a ST, you will always work a SC, DC, or TR into the same stitch.

→ Pattern is worked so that you can change colors as you run out of yarn, but not starting a new row unless you can finish it with that color.

→ Stitch count will not increase or decrease throughout the pattern.

Instructions:

Starting with Color A

Chain 74+3

Row 1: DC into 4th chain from hook, DC across starting chain (74 DC)

Row 2: CH 1, turn, DC into same stitch. DC across the row.

Row 3: CH 2, turn, TR into same stitch. CH 1, SK next ST, *TR SS, CH 2*, repeat from * across the row. After last TRSS, CH 1, TR into last ST.

Row 4: CH 1, turn, DC into same stitch. DC across the row.

Row 5: CH 1, turn, DC into same stitch. DC across the row.

Row 6: CH 1, turn, SC into same stitch. *TR, SC*, repeat from * across the row, SC last ST.

Row 7: CH 1, turn, DC into same stitch. DC across the row.

Row 8: CH 1, turn, DC into same stitch. DC across the row.

Change to Color B, and follow directions below.

Repeat Rows 3-8, 32 more times, or until you reach your desired length, changing yarn colors as you finish your ball of yarn, but not starting a new row unless you can finish it with that color.

If you like this pattern, you’ll love these other patterns below!

The Picot Posy Dishcloth

Baby Washcloth Collection

The Summer Ridges Dish Towel

Posted on November 8, 2021January 24, 2022 by tknitsandcrochets — Leave a comment

The Pretty Picot Baby Blanket Crochet Pattern

The Pretty Picot Baby Blanket

A good deal of 2021 for me was spent designing and making blankets. Quite a few good friends and cousins were all expecting at around the same time, which gave me the best excuse to do what I love most! One of my favorite makes of the year is the Pretty Picot Baby Blanket. It’s a lovely, textured blanket made with a lightweight and soft bamboo yarn that looks and feels amazing.

I incorporated one of my favorite stitches with this pattern, the picot single crochet stitch. Its an easy stitch to do that gives a fun and unique look, and the pattern itself has a simple and easy repeat that works up quickly and makes for a fast and lovely gift item! The yarn used is Lion Brand Truboo, which is a soft and luxurious feeling Lightweight-3 yarn, but any Lightweight-3 yarn would work up beautifully in this pattern.

Get the free pattern below or purchase the low cost, ad-free printable PDF in my shop, on Etsy, or Ravelry.

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The printable PDF includes stitch pictorials for the picot single on crochet and picot border.

Size: 31″ x 28″

Materials:

Lion Brand® Truboo™ (3.5 oz/100g; 241yds/220 m)

Color A Mint 2 Balls

Color B White 2 Balls

Color C Lilac 2 Balls

(or substitute any Light-3 weight yarn)

Size G/6 (4 mm) crochet hook, or size needed for gauge

Yarn needle or large-eyed tapestry needle

Gauge: 4” = 21 sts x 14 rows in stitch pattern

Stitches Used:

SL ST slip stitch

CH chain stitch

DC double crochet

PSC *for body*picot single crochet – insert hook into ST, YO and draw through 1 loop, CH 4, YO, draw through both loops on hook

PI *for border*picot stitch – SC, *CH 4, SL ST into your first CH, skip your next ST*, SC into the next ST, repeat from * around

Pattern Notes:

Traditional PSC and PI stitches that are used in the body and border for this piece both call for CH 3 instead of the CH 4 I recommended above. With the Truboo yarn that I used, which is a bit finer and slippier, I felt that the CH 4 gave the picot stitches a better look. If you are using a different yarn that is a bit sturdier you might want to try the CH 3 option to see if that still gives you enough texture and definition.
Starting CH of 1 does NOT count as your first ST. You will always work a SC or DC into the same ST.
Pattern is worked so that yarn color transitions can be carried up the right side (right side facing), instead of being cut and woven in at the end.

Instructions:

starting with Color A

Chain 150+3

Row 1: DC into 4th chain from hook, DC across starting chain (150 DC)

Row 2: CH 1, turn, SC into same stitch, then 3 SC, PSC into your next 4 stitches. *4 SC, PSC*, repeat from * across the row. 5 SC to the end of the row.

Row 3: CH 1, turn, DC into same stitch, then DC across the row.

Row 4: CH 1, turn, SC into same stitch, then 1 SC, PSC into your next 2 stitches. *4 SC, PSC*, repeat from * across the row. 2 SC to the end of the row.

Row 5: CH 1, turn, DC into same stitch, then DC across the row.

Row 6: CH 1, turn, SC into same stitch, then 3 SC, PSC into your next 4 stitches. *4 SC, PSC*, repeat from * across the row. 5 SC to the end of the row.

Row 7: CH 1, turn, DC into same stitch, then DC across the row.

Row 8: CH 1, turn, SC into same stitch, then SC across the row.

change to Color B

Row 9: CH 1, turn, DC into same stitch, then DC across the row.

Row 10: CH 1, turn, DC into same stitch, then 3 DC into your next 3 stitches. *CH 1, skip your next stitch, then 4 DC into the next 4 STS*. Repeat from * across the row. 5 DC to end of row.

Row 11: CH 1, turn, DC into same stitch, then DC across the row.

Row 12: CH 1, turn, DC into same stitch, then 1 DC into your next ST.. *CH 1, skip your next stitch, then 4 DC into the next 4 STS*. Repeat from * across the row. 2 DC to end of row.

change to Color C

Row 13: CH 1, turn, DC into same stitch, then DC across the row.

Row 14: CH 1, turn, SC into same stitch, then 3 SC, PSC into your next 4 stitches. *4 SC, PSC*, repeat from * across the row. 5 SC to the end of the row.

Row 15: CH 1, turn, DC into same stitch, then DC across the row.

Row 16: CH 1, turn, SC into same stitch, then 1 SC, PSC into your next 2 stitches. *4 SC, PSC*, repeat from * across the row. 2 SC to the end of the row.

Row 17: CH 1, turn, DC into same stitch, then DC across the row.

Row 18: CH 1, turn, SC into same stitch, then 3 SC, PSC into your next 4 stitches. *4 SC, PSC*, repeat from * across the row. 5 SC to the end of the row.

Row 19: CH 1, turn, DC into same stitch, then DC across the row.

Row 20: CH 1, turn, SC into same stitch, then SC across the row.

change to Color B

Row 21: CH 1, turn, DC into same stitch, then DC across the row.

Row 22: CH 1, turn, DC into same stitch, then 3 DC into your next 3 stitches. *CH 1, skip your next stitch, then 4 DC into the next 4 STS*. Repeat from * across the row. 5 DC to end of row.

Row 23: CH 1, turn, DC into same stitch, then DC across the row.

Row 24: CH 1, turn, DC into same stitch, then 1 DC into your next ST.. *CH 1, skip your next stitch, then 4 DC into the next 4 STS*. Repeat from * across the row. 2 DC to end of row.

change to Color A, then follow directions below.

Repeat Rows 1-24 three more times more (but for each repeat of Row 1, follow directions for Row 3), and then repeat Rows 1-8 once (ending with

Color A) or continue until you reach your desired length.

BORDER:

Continuing from your last stitch in the body, change to Color B.

Row 1: CH 1, SC into same stitch. Beginning on the top right corner (right side facing) SC across. Place 3 SC STS into your first corner space. Then continue to SC acround, working your SC stitches evenly spaced along the unfinished sides, and placing 3 SC into each corner space. SL ST to your first SC.

Row 2: CH 1, SC into same stitch. From that first SC, begin working the PI stitch (see description and images above) pattern around, continuing around the corners, until you reach your first SC. SL ST into your first SC. Fasten off, weave in ends. Fini!

If you like this pattern, you’ll love these other baby blanket patterns below!

The Starry Dreams Baby Blanket

The Candy Clouds Baby Blanket

The Bejeweled Boxes Baby Blanket

I hope you enjoy making this pattern as much as I enjoyed creating it! Be sure to tag me, @TKnitsandCrochets, when you share your makes, I love to see your finished work!

Posted on October 28, 2021January 24, 2022 by tknitsandcrochets — 2 Comments

The Trinity Stars Cowl Crochet Pattern

The Trinity Stars Cowl Crochet Pattern

The idea and design for this new cowl is borrowed directly from the Trinity Stars Tote Pattern, as I really love the textured, fabric look that piece has. It’s a beautiful stitch combination, and works up so easily and quickly, that I couldn’t resist translating it into another staple piece, a cowl! This cowl worked up super quickly, in one night, and is a great winter accessory that can be worn with just about anything.

Since I’ve used this particular stitch combination before and had such success with it I was super confident about using it on a new piece. It has a flexible and soft feel with a ton of texture and detail, and is still fairly simple to work up quickly and easily. I wanted to use a chunkier Medium-4 weight yarn, and something that is easy to find and affordable so you can work up a ton of these and use all winter or make up as quick and easy gifts for the holidays! The Lion Brand Pound of Love was perfect for this project as its affordable, easy to find, and still a very soft acrylic to work with.

Get the free pattern below or purchase the low cost, ad-free printable PDF in my shop, on Etsy, or Ravelry.

The printable PDF includes stitch pictorials.

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The Trinity Stars Cowl Crochet Pattern

Size: 13.5″ x 8″

Materials:

Lion Brand Pound of Love® (100 oz/454g; 1020 yds/932 m)

Color A Antique White – approx 3.5 oz

(or substitute any Medium-4 weight yarn)

Size J/10 (6 mm) crochet hook, or size needed for gauge

Yarn needle or large-eyed tapestry needle

Stitch Markers

Gauge: 4” = 15 sts x 17 rows in stitch pattern

Stitches Used:

SL ST slip stitch

CH chain stitch

SC single crochet

MC magic circle

SM stitch marker

RS right side

WS wrong side

FSC foundation single crochet – Begin with a slip knot on your crochet hook, then chain two. Insert your hook into the first chain stitch. Yarn over and pull up one loop. Yarn over and pull the yarn through the first loop on your hook. Yarn over and pull through both of the loops on your hook to make a single crochet. Then insert your crochet hook into the space between the chain and the single crochet, and repeat instructions above. Continue until you reach your desired length.

TRI trinity stitch – sc your first stitch, sc3tog (insert hook back through first SC in the row, YO, insert hook through next stitch, YO, insert hook through next stitch, YO, (4 loops on hook), pull through all 4 loops on hook, CH 1, repeat (inserting your hook for the first sc of sc3tog through the last stitch used for the previous sc3tog), continue across the row ending with a SC into your final stitch.

BER berry stitch – yarn over, insert your hook into the designated stitch, YO, pull through, YO, and pull through one loop on the hook. Then, YO, insert your hook into the same stitch again, YO, pull through, YO, and pull through all five loops on the hook. *No final CH*

Pattern Notes:

→ Starting CH 1 of each round does not count as your first stitch, you will always SC into the same spot, unless otherwise indicated.

→ Stitch count will be the same for the entirety of the cowl.

→ For the body, the alternating SC rows of 2-5 are intended to help hide the joining seam.

→ All SC only rows should be worked in the same direction for the entirety of the cowl, from the exterior of the cowl in a counterclockwise direction.

→ Before starting Rd 2, wrap the FSC chain length around your neck and make sure it feels comfortable for you. Increase or decrease in increments of 2 STS.

Instructions:

Round 1: CH 2, FSC 100 STS, SL to 1st FSC. (100 STS)

Round 2: CH 1, SC into your NEXT ST. SC into each ST around, work a SC INTO the last ST with your starting CH, SL ST to first SC.

Round 3: CH 1, SC into your SL ST space. SC into each ST around, skip the last ST with your starting CH, SL ST to first SC.

Round 4: CH 1, SC into your NEXT ST. SC into each ST around, work a SC INTO the last ST with your starting CH, SL ST to first SC.

Round 5: CH 1, SC into your SL ST space. SC into each ST around, skip the last ST with your starting CH, SL ST to first SC.

Round 6: CH 1, SC into your SL ST space, then TRI ST around, SC last ST, SL ST to your 1st SC.

Round 7: CH 1, turn (WS) SC into your SL ST space, then TRI ST around, SC last ST, SL ST to your 1st SC.

Round 8: CH 1, turn (RS), SC into your NEXT ST. SC into each ST around, work a SC INTO the last ST with your starting CH, SL ST to first SC.

Round 9: CH 1, SC into your SL ST space. SC into each ST around, skip the last ST with your starting CH, SL ST to first SC.

Round 10: CH 1, SC into your NEXT ST. SC into each ST around, work a SC INTO the last ST with your starting CH, SL ST to first SC.

Round 11: CH 1, SC into your SL ST space. SC into each ST around, skip the last ST with your starting CH, SL ST to first SC.

Round 12: CH 1, turn (WS), SC into your NEXT ST. SC, BER, *4SC, BER*, repeat from * around, SL ST to your 1st SC.

Round 13: CH 1, turn (RS), SC into your NEXT ST. SC into each ST around, work a SC INTO the last ST with your starting CH, SL ST to first SC.

Round 14: CH 1, SC into your SL ST space. SC into each ST around, skip the last ST with your starting CH, SL ST to first SC.

Round 15: CH 1, SC into your NEXT ST. SC into each ST around, work a SC INTO the last ST with your starting CH, SL ST to first SC.

Round 16: CH 1, SC into your SL ST space. SC into each ST around, skip the last ST with your starting CH, SL ST to first SC.

Repeat Rounds 2-16 once more, then repeat Rounds 6-11 once, or until your piece measures approximately 8″.

I hope you enjoy making this pattern as much as I enjoyed creating it! Be sure to tag me, @TKnitsandCrochets, when you share your makes, I love to see your finished work!